N/A to Turbo Motor Swap

[Swedespeed96]

Pretty wild build! Very cool though. Post some pics I’m sure we all would love to see the progress

[HansDaFonz]

Another Update:

The car is daily driven, and most issues have been sorted! As of right now, the car is currently down while I rewire the entire engine bay for ECU relocation, battery relocation, and wire tuck. I have adjustable Godspeed sway bar links, and new outer tie rods that I will be flipping (side to side) and mounting upside down to correct for the lowness. The subframe sits about 1.5" off the ground now (check the insta) and I manage not to scrape on anything but huge speedbumps. I am running -5* camber in the rear thanks to speeding.nu and I plan on acquiring some 326power springs to stiffen up the front, and make mounts for a coilover spring in the rear.

Just finished DIY reverse intercooler piping (thanks 2003 V70), and plan to get a Mishimoto intercooler ASAP.

The bad: I only see about 5 psi when the tune is supposed to net me 12-15. I'm currently in correspondence with my tuner sorting this out, but my guess is major boost leak in the form of a rubber boot or crack in IC. It has rained like 12 out of the last 15 days and it's been cold, so progress is slow!

Also threw in an S80 rear armrest (w/ the compartment and cup holders) and its a direct fit!

Still have a package of tune up stuff from IPD on the way, and my MSD ignition will be ready to go.

I think that's it for now...

@basemodeldonna

[HansDaFonz]

Swedespeed96 Very late response, my bad! It is a quicker, harsher shift but the trans likes it... not sure how that works, butt a tuner should be able to explain!

[Swedespeed96]

Can you tell me what the trans saver option is on your tune? I’ve never heard of that before

[HansDaFonz]

A little update: I've been daily driving the car even though it doesn't run quite right. Pulls decently when forced into a lower gear, but shifts "early" and seems to build boost fine but lose the power somewhere. Throwing a few codes but nothing major as far as I'm concerned (EVAP gross leak, sas, etc.) Starting to think my problem lies with electrical and/or fueling. I work 60+ scheduled hours a week right now so my free time is very valuable to me, but I should be picking up the pace soon.

Sovvagn has my S70 T5 ecu, so hopefully that returns soon! Just stage 1 with the trans saver option.

Also have my JOM coilovers installed with Mookeh camber plates. Coming from Bilstein HD + IPD springs, this setup is amazing. I've lowered the front more by removing the helper springs but the ride has definitely gotten a tad bouncy for me, so I will be looking into proper rate/height springs from Swift or Ground Control soon.

Peace

[IPD-Stefen]

This is honestly refreshing to see someone tackle a N/A to turbo swap instead of just asking if it can be done. Well done!!

[05V70RGT]

Before you replace it or rewire anything get yourself a mity-vac or similar hand pump. Disconnect waste gate actuator rod from the waste gate. Install pumps hose onto actuator. Rod at this point will be pulled into actuator as far as it will go. Assuming the diaphragm is intact. Hold rod to keep from turning and loosen the lock nut from rod end. Using the mity-vacS accurate pressure guage pump to approx 4psi. if it will hold at 4 with no drop in pressure, proceed to close gate manually by moving lever. Now, holding the lever in the closed position, turn the actuator end in or out until it will easily drop onto waste gate lever with out any force. Install clip and tighten lock nut against rod end. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT ALLOW THE WASTE GATE ACTUATOR ROD TO TURN WHILE ADJUSTING. There is your basic starting point for the waste gate to work correctly. Remove hand pump, reinstall WG hose go drive.

[HansDaFonz]

05V70RGT I replaced the actuator this weekend, but it still doesn't seem to build boost properly, so I will get a pressure tester and go from there. Also will be rewiring the TCV to make sure it's making connection with the ECU in a proper terminal.

[850ARE]

Good job man

[HansDaFonz]

tardcart Yes, you would need to swap ECU and the turbo TCU as well. I'm currently using an S70 T5 ECU in hopes of compensating for the blue injectors. Once the ecu is removed, the connector separates into two, the engine harness and the car harness (or whatever its called). If you keep everything connected to the motor, removing the engine with the necessary wires is very straight forward. Only had to pin the TCV to B41. The flange is different for N/A and turbo, so turbo exhaust must be used. I just (with help) plasma cut my own flange, welded a pipe to it, and welded an O2 bung on. I have a 3" pipe and the angle flange exhaust housing that runs straight out the hood, so back pressure is virtually nonexistent 😂

[tardcart]

I assume you put the turbo computer in? did you have to use the turbo cpu harness? there must be additional pins on it. Did you swap the turbo exhaust in?
the NA exhaust would inhibit boost.

[05V70RGT]

Easy way to tell is pull the pin from the actuator to gate arm. It should be tough to pull out and shaft shouldn't rotate. Get a mity-vac pressure pump and check it that way too.

[HansDaFonz]

tardcart I actually didn't swap the ABS system or touch the fuse box (except for immobilizer bypass) as they appear to be the same but I could be wrong! The engine wires are the only thing you need, and when you drop the subframe with everything attached, it's pretty easy to visualize what you need to disconnect. I just went around the motor and looking for anything that would snag/still be connected... I forgot the steering column and almost broke it haha

Took the car on a 250+ mile trip to the mountains (only 2500ft climb) and it drove well, just won't boost quite right. It holds about 3-5psi on the ipd cbv upgrade, and I'm positive there's no vacuum leak so still leaning towards a faulty wastegate actuator...

[tardcart]

It is strange people don't do this more. besides the plumbing/exhuste you would have to swap the entire wire loom from the turbo to ever hope to get rid of the check engine light. also I assume the abs
system must be swapped to make room for the turbo and the fuse box. The fuse box goes deep into the car, then why not throw in the dash from the turbo?.... ok maby its too much work.

[05V70RGT]

While on the ground he removed what was needed and dropped subframe, motor, all as an assembly then used hoist to lift car high enough to pull out the goods.