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PCV Top hose - 2005 T5

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  • PCV Top hose - 2005 T5

    Well, here goes, I hope the traffic here picks up, fast.

    Original hose is some hard plastic, accordion POS. Looked like it was leaking where it goes into the head, naturally I touched it to see if it was loose and.........I now have two big pieces and about 10 fragments. Fortunately, Volvo apparently has recognized their error - not enough to recall the car and replace it (at 15 years old I didn't really expect that) So I looked up the process to see if there were any little "Volvoisms" associated with it's replacement which looks pretty straightforward.
    Problem: There is a mention of a pair of short bushings, tubes , or what have you that may, or may not be needed with the new hose.
    At $18 bucks for the pair they are right where they cost a bit too much to buy and throw away but not enough to return them.

    Anybody know for sure?
    Thanks

  • #2
    If you are talking about this hose;

    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/6612...-volvo-8692217

    then you can replace that without taking the manifold out.You will have some space if you take out the fresh air pipe that goes to the air filter box and with a long extension you can reach the clamp behind the manifold on the pcv box.This hose connects to the pcv box directly.
    1997 Volvo S70 T5 Sold
    2002 Saab 9.3 2.2TID Sold
    2001 Volvo S80 2.0T Sold
    2004 Volvo V70 2.0T Daily Driver

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    • #3
      Thanks azatoglu.
      It actually is turning out pretty straightforward. I guess it was broken for som time because when I removed the covers off the head there were little puddles of baked on oil and crud in most of the little depressions on the head.
      I made the mistake of sopping up the damp oil with paper towel pieces, but then the black crud was left so I went after that with Dawn and Q tips, then the whole engine looked kinda dusty, then the black plastic looked rather dull, then..........Man, I need to get back to work and shopping and eating at restaurants.

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      • #4
        Sounds like that hose that leads down to the flame box.
        i am working on flamebox replacement in my 2005 S80, below are a couple pics from the job.
        Got the full kit from IPD https://www.ipdusa.com/catalog.asp?sku=139868
        hope to finish up tomorrow sometime. cleaning the throttle body & intake while it is off.

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        • #5
          thanks feklar74, that is indeed the hose. Nice photos, how many miles on that flamebox? My S70's lasted until around 200,000 - changed out Castrol synth every 3000 miles (since new) per my indie Volvo tech's advice. I have maintained that schedule with the S80 hoping I can have similar good luck!

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          • #6
            the car has 287k showing, i just recently started taking care of the car. it belonged to my step dad. i have no idea how long (if ever) it had been since the flame box had been changed. i knew there was a problem, first because it started leaking oil after i replaced the oil cap seal, second when i did the pressure test... where you take the oil cap off, the cover the hole with a rubber glove, hold it down with a rubber band around the base. keep a little play in the center where the hole was, don't stretch it too tight. start the car, and watch the glove. if it sucks in the center of the hole sightly, then things are working correctly, if it blows the glove out, then the fire box is clogged. when i did the test. mine did not blow the glove much, but you could tell there was no pressure going in, and it was trying to blow it to the opening.
            I just finished my fire box replacement yesterday, however i am waiting on a set of replacement fuel injectors to come in before i can test. when i removed the fuel rail, during the tear down for the fire box, it broke 4 of 5 of the O'ring retaining washers. so i ordered a rebuild kit for $12 on ebay for the injectors i have now, and also a 2nd set of 5 injectors that have already been reworked for $49. they have new O'rings, retainers, & filter screens. since i don't know how long these injectors have been in the car, figured it was best to just swap them out. should have them in a few days, then have the car back running again.

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            • #7
              Molarface,
              It is probably too late now, (and I'm hoping you are aware of this but...) with that amount of carbon showing in the airbox, internal passages in the motor become a concern as well...the mating inlet for that area on the block needs to been cleared, and following that, the "best practice" is to blow compressed air into that port and check that you can feel air passing out through the oil fill. If you are not feeling the air through that, this is your indication that the internal porting in the oil pan has become clogged which would make the flamebox maintenance basically non-effective. as the internal PCV pressure will not have an exit route - this situation will cause a multitude of leak issues and the pressure will seek an exit from the crankcase via the next weakest link - (typically seals and gaskets) - while dropping and cleaning the oil pan may sound like a major thing, in the P2 it's not as involved as one may be inclined to think; if you can pull off the flamebox replacement, you have the skills to complete the oil pan.




              2006 S-80 - the daily
              2005 V70R - recent purchase - stage zero work in progress
              1996 850- TBD - still no idea why I bought this

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              • #8
                Thanks Sweed-ish but actually mine is pretty clean. That is feklar74's photo.

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                • #9
                  DOH! I need a "reply" on individual messages here - lol, glad to hear that for you though!
                  2006 S-80 - the daily
                  2005 V70R - recent purchase - stage zero work in progress
                  1996 850- TBD - still no idea why I bought this

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                  • #10
                    I completed the fire box replacement a couple days ago. Sweed-ish, you were right when i pulled the old box off, it was blocked in to the block pretty good. i was able to use a pick and break it up and pull out most of it. then blow air in to verify it was clear. did not have to drop the oil pan thank goodness, but i did change the oil again before starting the car, just to be sure nothing was recirculated back in to the engine.
                    i did end up rebuilding the fuel injectors while the fuel rail was out. put in new screens, O'rings, and keepers. old screens looked pretty rough when they came out.
                    after the car was running again, i confirmed, at the oil fill opening, that i had positive pull on the system again. definite change over before.

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